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A visit here feels a little removed from the street outside, thanks to an interior that recalls the elegance of a vintage train carriage. The room has real character, but the drinks are the main reason to come, with a menu that treats classics seriously while leaving room for more playful house cocktails. Service tends to be polished without feeling stiff, which suits the setting well. In a neighborhood full of places competing for attention, this one stands out for its sense of occasion and its confidence behind the bar.
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